Fruit Trees, Grapevines,
Ornamental Trees
January/February: This is a good time to prune fruit trees,
grapevines. Spring blooming flowers are pruned after
blooming.** Grape vines should be pruned so that only one long
branch extends along each level of the trellis wire on both
sides of the main trunk. Winter is a good time to treat fruit
trees with a dormant oil spray.
Shrubs and Trees
January/February: This is a good time to prune ornamental
trees and shrubs. New planting can be done now and existing
plants can be transplanted.
Perennials, Annuals and Bulbs
January/February:
You can plant new perennials and transplant existing plants.
Vegetables
January/February: This is a great time to use solarization
to rid the garden of weeds. Cover your garden with clear
plastic and create a greenhouse like condition that will
increase the temperature and the humidity under the plastic -
weed seeds will sprout earlier than normal – in a couple of
weeks after sprouting remove the plastic and expose the
seedlings to the cold – voila they will be killed. This
is a good time to get out on a mild day and clean up the flower-
beds that you did not finish cleaning in the fall. Pick up the
dead limbs from winter storms and rake late dropping leaves.
Leaves should be composted rather than burned. Remember there
is gold in those leaves Winter is a good time to clean up your
garden tools. Clean the rust off of your tools with a metal
brush and treat them with oil. Some gardeners keep a bucket of
sand mixed with oil and dip their tools in it.
March: It is time to
start your vegetable seeds indoor. Put 2 to 3 inches of
potting mix in a shallow tray and moisten. Next sprinkle
seeds for tomato, pepper and squash plants on the surface.
With the point of a pencil push the seeds into the soil about
1/8 of an inch. Loosely cover the seeds with a shallow
layer of potting mix and cover the tray with clear plastic
wrap. The seeds should be sprouting in 10 days or less.
Once they sprout remove the plastic wrap and put the tray in a
sunny window and your plants will be ready for the garden in 4
to 6 weeks right after our last frost. Resist the urge to
mulch your vegetable garden.
Early season vegetables rely on
solar energy to heat the soil and stimulate root growth.
While mulch is a good weed deterrent, applying it too
early can slow down the growth of your cool season plants.
Hold off on mulching your vegetables until we get closer to the
early summer heat of late May and early June. At that time
your plants will appreciate the insulation.
Compost is a terrific organic
fertilizer and its organic matter will help to improve the soil
for many seasons. Apply 2 to 3 inches of compost to the
surface and then work that compost into the top 4 to 6 inches of
the soil. That way 2 inches of compost will improve almost
6 inches of garden soil. How much to buy? It takes
approximately 17 cubic feet of compost to cover 100 square feet
of garden soil 2 inches deep. A small pickup with a 6 foot
bed that's 2 feet deep and 4 feet wide will hold about 48 cubic
feet of compost.
Spring and fall are the main
breeding seasons for voles who produce from 5 to 10
litters. The difference between moles and voles is that
voles are vegetarians that eat plant roots and moles are
carnivores that hunt earthworms, snails, slugs and insects.
Voles like to use the tunnels that moles make. Look for
small holes next to a plant's root system. This can indicate
that voles are at work. A good way to capture them is to
set a mousetrap with peanut butter. Place it next to a
hole and place a black plastic pot with a brick on top of it as
voles like privacy. Re-bait the the traps for 3 to 4 days before
abandoning the hole and then backfill the holes.
Lawns
March:
In March remove thatch and aerate lawn. Apply pre-emergence
herbicide and crabgrass killer to tall fescue lawns mid February
to mid March. You can do this with products with the
active ingredients: siduron, benefin, bensulide or dithiopry and
follow the instructions carefully. Crabgrass preemergents
can
be applied to prevent crabgrass germination in the lawn.
Recommendations on specific preemergents can be found in the VA
PMG at:
http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/pmg/hga5.pdf.
Do not fertilize tall fescue lawns unless they
were not fertilized in the fall. Overseed during this period if
do not use pre-emergence material which hinders germination of
grass seed. Apply crabgrass killer and pre-emergence herbicide
to Bermuda/Zoysia grasses to prevent weeds from mid January
through March 1.
If you need to plant
grass in the early spring do it now. The seed will benefit
from its exposure to moisture. By planting now the grass
seeds will be ready when the temperatures warm are right.
Frost and cold weather will not hurt the seed for three or four
weeks. Grass seeds planted in the spring comes up great
but it frequently dies in the summer heat. The young
plants do not have enough time to develop a healthy root system
before our hot, dry summer weather arrives.
April:
Never fertilize tall fescue lawns in the spring if they were
fertilized in the fall but do apply annual weed control.
Fertilize Bermuda/Zoysia grasses in April, again in May and
again in June. Slow Release Fertilizers are best. Mow lawn only after it has grown at least two
inches. Leave first grass clippings of the season on the ground
as they are rich in nutrients and contain fewer weed seeds than
those collected later.
May:
Lengthen the time between waterings and increase the amount of
water provided at one time to encourage root growth. In May
apply broadleaf weed killer to control summer annual weeds.
September: Apply
pre-emergent now to control the seeds of henbit and chickweed
October: Lawn weeds
can be controlled in the winter when daytime temperatures are in
the 50ties or 60ties for a couple of days. Use any selective
broadleaf weed killer for turf.
Henbit and chickweed will
die on their own by mid- April. These are winter annuals that
germinate in the fall, grow through the winter, bloom and drop
seeds in early spring and die by the end of April
November: Apply
pre-emergent to henbit and chickweed and it will kill the small
seedlings before they can mature and produce more seeds.
The ideal situation
for those who have ponds and small lakes is to have a buffer
around them that will prevent erosion and serve as a filter for
nutrients coming from the yard. The Chesapeake Bay
Preservation Act does suggest one Best Management Practice is a
buffer of fescue around sensitive water areas as long as they
are mowed occasionally to provide the best filter and reduce the
need for fertilizer. The best approach is to contact a
Soil and Water Conservation person in your local district.
They will come meet with you and discuss the best way to manage
borders around your pond or lake.
Shrubs
and Trees
March:
Pinch back new growth now on pyracanthas to make more compact.
Prune spring-flowering shrubs only after flowering is complete.
Plant roses and bare-root shrubs while dormant--about mid
March. Prune hedges leaving the base of the plant wider than
the top to allow sunlight to get to the bottom of the plant.
Move boxwoods now. Spray horticultural dormant oil on shrubs
and trees to smother fungal diseases and insect eggs such as
scale.
Prune trees that
bleed--River Birch and Maple--only after their leaves are fully
developed. Move dogwoods now. Prune, if have not already,
crape myrtle and dogwood.
This is
the perfect time to add plants to your landscape. Before
you plant check the roots carefully. Since many landscape
plants are sold in plastic containers, their roots have a
tendency to grow to the shape of the container. This can
lead to girdling roots that can eventually choke out your
plants. Pry the roots apart and spread them evenly around
the planting hole.
April:
Fertilize azaleas and camellias only after they have finished
blooming.
Prune forsythia, camellia
(Japanese and Sasanqua), daphne, winter jasmine, pittosporum,
privet (deciduous and evergreen), serviceberry, pussy willow,
witch hazel, and mugo pine. Those that flower should not be
pruned until after flowering.
Plant container-grown
roses. Prune existing roses to buds that point outward to
encourage air and sunlight penetration. Dark colored canes
denote dead wood—remove. Feed roses monthly April through
October.
Prune ornamental cherry
trees after they have bloomed.
Transplant trees and shrubs
before hot weather arrives.
May:
Prune rhododendrons and
azaleas immediately after flowering, now or in June. Prune
barbeery, bayberry, camellias (all), daphne, fothergill, Indian
hawthorn, mugo pine, mahonia, photinia, pieris, spring-blooming
spirea, viburnum (deciduous and evergreen), winter jasmine,
flowering almond, weigela, and yew.
Mulch trees and shrubs to
conserve water during summer.
Remove suckers and
watersprouts (small branches that grow perpendicular to tree
branches) on trees such as crape myrtles. Mulch trees to
conserve water during summer. Prune maple, deodar cedar,
hemlock, spruce, pine, buckeye, red bud, crabapple, and Harry
Lauder’s walking stick.
November: We
never recommend planting fruit trees or any other trees within
20 feet of the foundation of your house. This is primarily
to protect your foundation from the effects of the trees' roots
Perennials, Annuals, and Bulbs
March:
Let the weeding begin!
Apply pre-emergent weed
control and add compost to ornamental beds. Divide and
transplant summer and fall-blooming perennials--ajuga, astilbe,
aster, bleeding heart, coral bells, daylilies, liriope, oxalis,
phlox, chrysanthemums, and Shasta daisies. Remove excess mulch
from around perennials and fertilize perennial beds.
Apply a slow release fertilizer according to soil test
recommendations. Remove excess mulch
from around perennials and bulbs.
Plant seeds of many
perennials and annuals indoors in early March for transplanting
outdoors after the last frost in mid April (usually April 21).
Grow under grow lights or on sunny window ledge.
Cut back to almost ground
level and divide ornamental grasses such as pampas grass and
fountain grass. Cut back shoreline plants to enjoy view in
summer.
Plant pansies by mid March
for bright shows.
Sow seeds of alyssum,
California poppy, candytuft, larkspur, pansy, viola, phlox,
pinks, Shirley poppy, snapdragon, stock and sweet pea as soon as
the soil has thawed. Fertilize spring flowering bulbs as leaves
emerge.
The time to move forsythia
is in the spring after bloom. Cut it to 2 feet tall and dig up
and move it to a sunny spot where it will have plenty of room.
Fertilize your daylilies
with a slow release fertilizer according to soil test
recommendations..
April:
Harden off greenhouse plants before planting in the landscape.
Lift, divide, and replant chrysanthemums as soon as new shoots
appear. Pinch out the tops frequently until July 4th
to thicken the plant. Plant snapdragons, cosmos, larkspur,
calendula, dusty miller, bells of Ireland, aster, candytuft,
cleome, cornflower, dianthus, and phlox. Pull mulch back from
emerging plants.
Buy annuals that have lots
of buds but aren’t in bloom. These plants are not root bound
and will establish and grow faster. Plant strawflower, money
plant, hydrangea, statice, Chinese lantern, celosia, and globe
amaranth to dry for arrangements.
Plant those plants you
started indoors as long as you cover them with floating row
covers – no need to harden off as long as cover with floating
row covers until after the last frost. Plant gladiolus, lilies,
cannas and other summer-flowering bulbs intermittently now
through mid-June to extend blooming period. In late April rake
up flower-beds and directly sow flower plant seeds and put in
purchased plants that can be planted only after the last frost.
Apply a slow release
fertilizer according to soil test recommendations after they have bloomed. Let
foliage die naturally. Plant dahlias in late April and stake at
the time of planting. Plant gladiolus, lilies, cannas and other
summer-flowering bulbs intermittently now through mid June to
extend blooming period. Label daffodils clumps that are too
crowded; dig up and separate in July.
Fertilize lilies with
a slow a release fertilizer according to soil test
recommendations in early spring (2 or 3 times a year use organic
fertilizer). Divide lilies every 3 to 5 years in early spring
or after blooming.
After 14 days without rain
provide a half inch of water a week. Buy top-quality plants
from a reputable supplier. Repel rabbits with a
strong scented bar of soap
tied up in onion bags. To additional methods to repel deer
and rabbits check out these links.
http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/wildlife/deercont.PDF
http://icwdm.org/handbook/mammals/Deer.asp
http://www.ext.vt.edu/news/periodicals/commhort/1997-10/1997-10-02.html
To repel thrips use 2-3 tablespoons of
dishwashing liquid with a dash of mouthwash in a gallon of
warm water- spray this solution on the plants at the first sign
of thrips ( if the tip of the bud is slightly bent before it
opens).
Prune forsythia, camellia,
daphne
Plant ground covers such as
ajuga, small-leaved ivy, pachysandra, vinca minor, mondo grass,
liriope and cast iron plant or ferns to cover barren spots under
trees.
Plant strawberries now.
May:
Plant perennials such as
columbine, cosmos, viburnum, and gaura. Sidedress perennials with
a slow a release fertilizer according to soil test
recommendations. Dig
and divide dusty miller and replant the more vigorous, outside
portions of the clump. Fertilize well while growing. Pinch back
zinnias, petunias, and salvia when 4 to 6 inches high to promote
bushy growth. Pinch chrysanthemums until July 4. Set out
marigolds, petunias, ageratums, impatiens, salvia, vinca, and
fibrous begonias and other annuals.
Prune honeysuckle and
wisteria.
June:
Set out annuals such as
marigolds, petunias, ageratums, impatiens, salvia and begonias.
Fertilize daylilies with a slow
release fertilizer according to soil test recommendations.
Vegetables
March:
A terrific garden planting guide is available through your local
Virginia Cooperative Extension (you can enter the last frost
date for your area and then calculate when to plant). Input
www.ext.vt.edu and
follow the link to local offices and select the one closest to
you and follow the links to “Educational Resources.”
Plant tomato and pepper
seeds inside in early March for transplanting outside after last
frost in mid April. Grow under grow lights or on sunny window
ledge. Plant spinach, onions, radishes, broccoli, collards,
cabbage, Brussels spouts, potatoes, carrots, Swiss chard, and
peas now. Purchase seeds for warm-weather plants, flowering
vines, perennials, and veggies.
April:
The average last
killing frost in our area is between April 4 and April 21. Add
compost, not manure, to garden soil to improve it. Also till
into soil a slow releases fertilizer. Plant herbs outside after April
21 as well as warm season vegetables.
May:
Harvest peas, radishes,
lettuce, and spring onions among other cool-weather vegetables.
Plant warm-weather veggies such as snap beans, okra, squash,
sweet corn, lima beans, eggplant, peppers, sweet potato,
cucumber, melon, tomatoes, etc.—either from seeds or
transplants.
Houseplants
March:
Start fertilizing now for good growth. Repot plants that are
root-bound and cut back leggy plants to encourage compact
growth. Plants will require more water now and on through the
summer.
April:
Give Easter lilies bright,
indirect light and moist soil. After blooming, plant in a sunny
spot in the garden (usually in May) or after the danger of frost
is over and they will bloom next year. To avoid transmitting a
virus, plant Easter lilies away from other lilies. Wait until
warm weather—55 degrees--is definitely here before moving
houseplants outdoors. Continue to feed houseplants lightly.
May:
Divide indoor plants when
new growth starts in spring and root cuttings during spring and
summer when the plant is actively growing. Move houseplants
outdoors when night temperatures stay above 55 degrees.
Progressively move them into their bright, summer locations so
as not to sunburn them. Move amaryllis, treated as an indoor
plant, outside in shaded location and let continue to grow. If
do not plan to bring back inside, plant it outdoors placing base
of bulb 8 inches deep (top will be 3 inches deep). Protect over
winter with 2-3 inches of mulch. Will bloom in late spring.
Gardening
Tips—Savvy Gardeners
- As
you plan your container plantings, consider the weight of
the container and the soil. If both are lightweight, you
may find the container will move with the wind or crawl with
the weight of the plant. Consider putting a brick or stones
in the bottom of a lightweight container before putting in
the soil and plant to give it stability.
-
Understand what fertilizer does. Plant fertilizer does not
cause growth but rather it allows growth to occur if water,
light, temperature, and humidity are favorable. Fertilizer
is not a medicine for diseased or damaged plants. Too much
fertilizer can dehydrate or burn the plants roots. Know the
fertilizer requirements of your plants and follow
recommended guidelines for administering fertilizers.
-
Growing seedlings indoors requires full sunlight or
artificial light 10 to 16 hours per day to grow. If
seedlings do not receive adequate light, their stems become
light colored and leggy from straining to reach available
light. Artificial light should be just a few inches
above the top of the seedling; therefore, cool light bulbs
need to be used.
- If
you have a scale problem (insects hiding in black, brown,
yellow, or white fungus-like clumps—think turtle
shells--that cling to steams or leaves) such as camellias,
now is the time to spray with dormant oil before the new
leaves appear. The oil coats the insects and smoothers
them. Since dormant oil affects the insects it directly
touches, repeated sprays may be needed.
-
Pruned branches can become plant supports. When pruning
shrubs and trees, collect discarded branches that can be
trimmed to make a V at the tip. Save these branches to use
as supports for flowers that are weak-stemmed or are leaning
toward the light. Stick the branch in the soil and allow
the floppy plant stem to rest in the V—no string is needed
to hold the plant.
-
Whenever you buy a new bedspread or blanket, save the vinyl
zippered cover to use as a portable greenhouse. A
seed-starting flat usually fits inside perfectly. If you
need to reinforce the height of the cover, simply bend metal
clothes hangers and place one in each side of the flat.
These greenhouses can be used under grow lights and later
taken outside and opened up when hardening off seedlings.
- Mass
your annuals having one type of plant. This will give you a
spectacular effect and reduce maintenance.
- Use
plant supports to keep your plants from splaying all over
the ground. Put these in now as peonies and other drooping
flowers begin to grow.
-
Prepare soil just before sowing so as to to disturb the weed
seeds and give your plant seed an equal start. If you sow
seeds in a depression then water will be directed to the
seed.
- For
seed starting success indoors use bottom heat and artificial
light.
-
Alternative
evergreen groundcovers to ivy
Liriope (Liriope muscarii) has a grasslike
appearance and is good for sun or shade locations. It grows
to 12 inches in height and width and has either purple or
white flowers on spikes in the summer. It should be cut
back to the ground in late February or early March.
Paachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis) grows
well in shaded or partially shaded areas and somewhat moist
but well drained areas. It grows about 8 inches tall, has
purplish tinged foliage in the spring, bright green in
summer, and a bit yellow-green in winter.
Creeping euonymus (Euonymus fortunet) grows in
the sun or shade and is drought-tolerant but in large
plantings needs to be clipped to keep neat.
Creeping juniper (Juniperus horizotalis) grows
1 to 2 feet tall and thrives in hot, dry areas in full sun.
There are many cultivars to choose from.
Common Periwinkle, Myrtle,
or Vinca (Vinca minor)
has dark-green foliage and purple, blue, or white flowers,
depending on the variety, that bloom in April and sometimes
again in the fall. The plant grows about 6 inches tall,
spreading in all directions by sending out long, trailing
and rooting shoots that make new plants. It is best in
shade, but will grow satisfactorily in full sun.
Ajuga, Carpet Bugleweed (Ajuga
reptans) is a
semi-evergreen plant that grows rapidly by producing mats of
foliage in rosettes. As runners develop from the mother
plants, take root, and produce new plants, it can become
invasive.
The foliage grows about 4 inches high with upright clusters
of blue flowers reaching 6 to 8 inches. The plant flowers in
early May to mid-June. It will flourish in almost any soil
with good drainage; it grows best in full sun, but also
tolerates shade.
- Controlling your
watering will help prevent damping-off. This condition is
caused by several fungi such as Phtophtora and
Pythium. These fungi live at the soil line,
just where air meets the moist soil surface.
When your potting soil is kept continuously moist by
overwatering, the fungi attack your seedlings. The telltale
symptom is a constricted stem, just at or below the soil
surface. Once seedlings are infected, they tend to fall over
at the soil line.
Allowing the soil surface to dry out will go a long way in
preventing this problem. If, for some reason, your potting
mix remains wet for an extended period of time, look to your
kitchen cabinet to help prevent the disease. Cinnamon powder
is a natural fungicide and has been shown to be particularly
effective against damping-off. In addition, weak chamomile
tea (after it has cooled) is another natural fungicide.
- Moles eat insects and make raised
tunnels. They prefer white grubs and they are most commonly
found in the lawn. Some gardeners consider moles beneficial
because they rid the soil of grubs which damage the grass.
Voles eat plants and do not make raised tunnels. Your first
indication of a vole problem is usually when you find dead
plants with practically no roots. You can also see holes in
the ground about 1" in diameter around the base of
shallow-rooted plants.
Voles are more prolific than moles. A single pair can have
several litters a year of 6 to 8 young. This, a single
perennial bed could be the home for 10 to 20 voles.
It is difficult getting control using pesticides. Traps may
be the best option to control either of these 2 rodents.
Poisons pose a threat to pets, children and wildlife. Mouse
traps work on voles and mechanical kill traps are available
for moles.
Before you trap consider the beneficial role moles play. The
Cornell Cooperative Extension points out that in addition to
the control of undesirable grubs and insects, "by tunneling
and shifting soil particles, moles permit better aeration of
the soil and allow humus (organic matter) to travel deeper
into the soil. This tunneling also allows subsoil material
to be moved closer to the surface where nutrients may be
more available to plant roots."
